Holland Sea

This picture was taken Holland while i was on a boat. i edited this image on iPhoto instead of photoshop to see what effects i could get. i added two different types of effects to the image, fade colour and boost colour. They both gave it a bit more sharpness. i then changed the contrast to +37, just like photoshop. i really do like the image as it seems to be in proportion with the skylike running through the middle of the photograph.

Isolated Image

I edited this image to make it look isolated. The red in the flower is really bright and stands out from the rest of the image. i selected the flower using the select tool and then selected inverse and changed the contrast to make the image darker. i then selected inverse again to make the flower selected and brightened it with the brightness/contrast tool. This makes the flower look isolated from the rest of the leafs.

Blurred movement, slow shutter speed

This picture was taken in Brick Lane of some passers by. i really like this image because of the way the image was taken. i took it very quickly using a flash gun. The shutter speed was slow making the people blurred and the background still. i scanned the image onto the computer then uploaded it onto blogger. i left the image how it was taken.

Frozen movement, fast shutter speed

This picture was taken in Holland. As you can see the image is of a fountain. My camera was set on a first shutter speed at 1/500 s. This froze all action. The water is not blurred and nor are the people. The droplets of the image are very sharp and so are the people even though every single one of them were moving. i only up'd the contrast on this image to make it brighter.

Black n white, colour in CAD

I opened this image in photoshop and turned it from black and white to colour. i selected image>adjustments>black and white. You can change the reds, yellows, greens, cyans, blues and magentas. i moved the reds, yellows and greens to 100% and left cyan at 60%, the blues at 20% and the magentas at 80%. Doing this makes the contrast of the image better.

Long Depth of Field

This is my long depth of field photograph. i didn't edit it is just crossed processed film which gives it this effect. Most of the image is in focus that is why it is long depth of field. Although the back is a little bit out of focus it is still long depth of field because the main subject(the flowers) are in focus.

White Dropper

On this image i used the white dropper tool. Image>adjustments>levels. I tried changing the dropper a number of times. The most effective was when i moved the dropper to make the image much darker. i don't think it looks better but i think it looks really effective. All the colours have changed. From bright pinks/purples/yellows to dark pinks/purples/yellows. The edited image(the first image) is darker but looks sort of scary and dark.

Short Depth of Field

This is my short depth of field image. It was taken in kew gardens on a film camera using slide film. This is why the colours are the way they are because they were cross processed. The apeture was set at F.5 but i cannot remember the shutter speed.

Curves

I edited this picture using curves. i just slightly moved the curve to make the image brighter. i went to images>adjustments>curves to make the curves box come up. i don't really like the edited image(the first image) because it does look quite fake. i changed the curves a number of times but this looked the best. If i moved the curve down the image went very grey and dull.

Telephone

This picture was converted from black to white using layers/hue and saturation. i clicked layers>new adjustment layer>hue/saturation>ok. Another window opened up after so i could change the saturation to -100. This made the image go to black and white. Then to adjust it to make it look better i reopened the layer drop down menu>new adjustment layer>hue/saturation>mode(changed the mode to colour)>ok. Then clicked ok again on the hue/saturation window. i then double clicked the hue/saturation layer 1 so i can start making the picture look better. Once the window opened, i changed master to red, blue then green adjusting each of them to make them look better then clicked ok. i then merged the layers together so i could save the picture as a jpg.

This is the 2nd conversion method. i clicked layer>new adjustment layer>channel mixer>ok. Once the window opened i selected monochrome, this made the image got black and white. i then changed red to 70% green, to 30% and blue to 20%. i added hue/saturation layer and clicked ok. i then moved the hue/saturation layer down so it was 2nd, double clicked it then changed the saturation so that it looked better. To save it i merged the layers to make it a jpg.

Out of both conversion methods i prefer the channel mixer method. This gave the image more of a contrast when i changed it from colour to black and white.

Layers and Masks

This is my multiple exposure image. I used photoshop and used layers in order to get two pictures merged into one. i decided which picture was going to be the background and which picture was going to be the overlay. i then used the move tool using the tool palette icon then clicked on the overlay image and dragged it on top of the background picture. It appears as layer 1 in the layer box. To make it easier to edit i changed the opacity to a lower scale. i selected layer 1 then clicked layer>layer mask>reveal all. This shows all the overlay image. i then changed the opacity back to 100% to make it easier to worth with. To get rid of parts of the overlay that i don't want i clicked the paint brush tool and painted it. i painted in parts of the picture i wanted so i just clicked x and filled it back in. After finishing i merged the layers so it saved as a jpg.